In Reply to: N6 settings posted by peana on July 25, 2002 at 12:47:24:
Haven't done any tall fescue, but have threshed
Bluegrass the last two seasons which should be
harder to thresh, as it is smaller and lighter
seed. I use rigid airfoil chaffers in my
machines, although if you are going to buy some
you might want to consider the adjustables to
keep some of the material off the seive. I tried
the small seed kits. Ended up throwing them in
the scrap pile because they plugged up with
straw and chaff ect. Instead I just built some
panels 5"wide by the width of the seperator with
a 1" lip all the way around, and rivoted them
to the lip on the fan housing thus choking the
fan more. Now I can run the fan choke at about
3.5-4 most of the time. You will need a little
more air than that probably. The seive will want
to be about 1/8-3/16" open to start with. I run
the concave about 1/2-5/8 open and the cylinder
anywhere from 800 up to 980 rpms depending on
conditions. Your fescue should be easier to
knock out so you probably won't have to be
as aggressive. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Always remember that the guys that write those
operators manuals are not farmers and generally
haven't spent much time making a combine work.
Everyone told me that Gleaners won't do bluegrass
seed worth a hoot and are barely acceptable for
fescue and ryegrass. Even the dealers and the
factory reps said this. This is true if you want
to leave the machine set for wheat. I got pretty
discouraged until I finally decided that these
combines have pretty much all the same stuff
inside as anything else (JD,IH)that will do a
good job on these crops, plus they have some
things that the others don't (accel rolls, dist.
augers, pnuematic cleaning). Once I stopped
lamenting and started thinking, I learned that
with very little work I could make my $15K N6 do
as good a job as those other high $ machines.
The key for me and it may be for your fescue is
to learn how to feed the shoe. This is done by
making the distribution augers do their job-that
is spreading the material evenly on the shoe.
These machines are alot like a computer-they
will do anything you are smart enough to make
them do-that's where my challenge was. You just
have to stop and think, and usually all it takes
is a little sheet metal and about 20 minutes and
you can solve most any problem. If one side of the shoe is overloading, make the material go
where you want it to go.
Didn't mean to get so windy. The main thing is
don't be afraid to go against the "conventional
wisdom".